Althoff Home Services Blog: Archive for the ‘Plumbing’ Category

What To Do If Your Toilet Overflows?

Monday, November 4th, 2019

As a homeowner, or even as a renter, hearing water unexpectedly splashing on the floor in the bathroom when it’s vacant can make your heart skip a beat.

Water damage can be an expensive, unpleasant burden to handle. Unfortunately, you’ll probably have to deal with a faulty, overflowing toilet at some point in your life. Do you know what to do when the water from the toilet starts flooding your bathroom?

Thankfully, most overflowing toilet problems can be quick and inexpensive to repair when you have some basic plumbing know-how.

Here, we’ll illustrate what to do when your toilet starts overflowing and how you can get water flowing down the drain again. When in doubt, remember the plumbing experts at Althoff Industries are only a phone call away.

1. Shut off the Water

Before you can figure out why your toilet is overflowing, you need to stop the flow of water to your toilet to prevent excessive water damage.

Most toilets have a water shut-off valve located close to the wall between the tank and the floor.

Turn the valve handle clockwise until it’s fully tightened, and you no longer hear water flowing.

This should stop water from flowing out of the toilet and limit the amount of cleanup and water damage you have.

If you’re unable to turn off the water at the toilet’s shut-off valve, you can remove the lid from the toilet tank and manually lift the float. When the float reaches a certain height, the toilet knows to stop filling the tank with water.

Oftentimes, the float gets stuck and the toilet overflows with water if it’s unable to drain properly.

If you still can’t stop water from flowing out of your toilet, you can shut off the flow of water to your entire house.

Depending on the age of your home and where you live, the water shutoff valve should be located near your water heater, or if you are connected to a municipal city water supply, by the street. This should prevent any additional water from flowing to your home.

If you’ve turned off the toilet water supply, adjusted the tank float and turned off the main water supply, and the toilet is still overflowing, you may be experiencing a sewer line backup. For sewer line backup emergencies, contact a professional immediately.

2. Figure Out Why the Toilet Isn’t Draining

The likely culprit for an overflowing toilet is a clogged drain. What’s the easiest and most effective way to unclog a toilet drain? A flange plunger.

In comparison to standard flat-based sink plungers, flange plungers have an extra rubber ridge that fits inside of a toilet drain. This creates more suction during the plunging process and helps you unclog the drain with ease.

First, remove some of the water from the toilet. This will ensure you make less of a mess during the plunging process.

Place the flange inside the toilet drain and firmly press the cup against the drain to create a strong seal. Forcefully push the plunger towards the drain and pull it back up again five times, releasing the seal on the final pull. Repeat this motion until you dislodge the clog and the toilet starts to drain.

3. What if a Plunger Doesn’t Work?

If you’ve worn your arms out trying to clear the drain using a flange plunger, a toilet snake or closet auger may be the solution you need. These manageable, hand-powered tools are easy to use, affordable and available at any local hardware store.

Toilet snakes can clear drains by breaking up the clog, allowing it to pass through the sewer lines. Simply insert the coiled end of the snake into the opening and keep feeding it down the drain until you feel it stop at the clog.

Crank the handle until you feel the clog begin to break up and see water begin to drain. You may need to reverse the snake and crank it multiple times if the clog is particularly tough.

4. Remember to Clean Thoroughly

If your toilet is overflowing, it’s probably carrying harmful, disease-carrying bacteria everywhere the water touches. When you finally get your toilet flowing again, be sure to remove any standing water, completely dry out cabinets and thoroughly sanitize every surface the water touched.

When all Else Fails, Hand It off to Althoff

Our experienced plumbing experts can get even the most stubborn toilets flowing properly again. We understand how unpleasant plumbing troubles can be—that’s why we’re available to help 24/7. Give us a call at 815-345-2778 to schedule your appointment today.

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Does a Low-Flow Toilet Really Save Money?

Monday, September 16th, 2019

If you’re a homeowner with older toilets, you could be flushing your hard-earned money down the drain. Regular-flow toilets can use up to seven gallons of water per flush. In comparison, a low-flow toilet is required to use 1.6 gallons of water or less per flush.

When you start doing the math, you can see that with every flush, a few cents are added to your water bill. These cents can quickly turn into dollars. By limiting the amount of water you use per flush, it’s possible to drastically reduce your water bill.

By replacing old, inefficient toilets with WaterSense labeled models, the average family can reduce water used for toilets by 20 to 60 percent. They could also save more than $110 per year in water costs, and $2,200 over the lifetime of the toilets, according to the EPA.

Can your home and wallet benefit from a low-flow toilet upgrade? We’ll help you do the math.

What Is a Low-Flow Toilet?

In 1992, the Energy Policy Act mandated that all new toilets sold in the U.S. must be limited to 1.6 gallons of water per flush or less. With these new restrictions aimed at environmental conservation, low-flow toilets became mainstream.

Modern low-flow toilets employ one of two methods to remove waste from your home:

  • Gravity. When you remove the flapper from the tank drain, gravity forces water out of the tank and carries away waste from the toilet bowl.
  • Pressure-Assisted. These toilets compress a pocket of air, which then accelerates the water to forcefully clear waste from the bowl when you flush.

High-efficiency toilets are available to help increase your cost savings even further. These toilets have multiple flush controls that differentiate between removing liquid and solid waste.

Liquid waste can be flushed using as few as 0.8 gallons of water, whereas solid waste usually requires the maximum 1.6 gallons per flush.

When averaged out, your water usage will most likely fall well below the standard 1.6 gallons per flush, which is typical of standard low-flow toilets.

How Much Money Can a Low-Flow Toilet Save?

The short answer to “Does a low-flow toilet really save money?” is “yes.” However, the actual dollar amount is more difficult to calculate. Depending on your usage, you may be able to offset the cost of a new low-flow toilet in a matter of months, but it may take years.

The amount of money you can expect to save by upgrading to a low-flow toilet depends on multiple variables, including:

  • Age. If you’re upgrading from a pre-1992 water waster that drains seven gallons per flush, you’re going to see substantial savings on your water bill immediately. If you’re upgrading from a low-flow toilet to a high-efficiency toilet, your monetary savings will add up more gradually throughout the toilet’s lifetime.
  • Number of toilets in the home. The more toilets you have, the more they’ll cost to replace. If you’re replacing multiple regular toilets with low-flow models, you’re probably going to see greater overall savings on your water bill.
  • Household size. Your initial water bill savings will be greater when you’re used to seeing more flushes. Single-person households will see the savings add up over time, whereas large families should notice significant cost savings immediately.
  • Type of water. Homeowners who are connected to municipal infrastructure and pay a water bill will notice greater initial savings than homeowners with private wells. However, newer low-flow toilets will put less strain on your well equipment and supply.

Additional Savings Potential

In addition to ongoing monetary savings, low-flow toilets can provide environmental benefits and potentially, depending on your city or municipality, one-time rebates.

With a maximum of 1.6 gallons per flush, you’ll be conserving water and have a smaller environmental footprint. According to Mother Earth News, low-flow toilets now save the average U.S. household (2.64 people) about 25 gallons of water per day.

As a bonus, many cities and municipalities offer rebates or tax incentives for replacing old regular toilets with new low-flow or high-efficiency toilets. Contact your local public works department to learn more.

Are You Interested in Saving Money by Replacing Your Toilet With a Low-Flow Toilet?

We get it, replacing your toilet isn’t the most fun job in the world. Leave it to the experts at Althoff Industries. We can help you choose the right low-flow or high-efficiency toilet for your home. We can even install it for you, so you don’t have to get your hands dirty. Give us a call today at (815) 455-7000.

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Surge Protector Safety Tips

Monday, March 25th, 2019

Surge protectors are essential electrical safety features in just about every home. Living in a world powered by electronics, most households have at least one surge protector for their computers, entertainment centers, mobile devices or kitchen appliances.

While surge protectors can supercharge productivity, they can also cause devastating damage if used improperly.

Surge Protector Safety: Important Things to Know

According to Electrical Safety Foundation International, “Home electrical fires account for an estimated 51,000 fires each year, nearly 500 deaths, more than 1,400 injuries and $1.3 billion in property damage.” Of those 51,000 fires, “The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that electrical receptacles are involved in 5,300 fires every year, causing 40 deaths and more than 100 consumer injuries.”

To make sure your surge protectors are keeping your devices safe, without potentially causing devastating damage to your home, we’ve compiled a list of essential safety tips.

Only Purchase UL or ETL-Certified Surge Protectors

The Underwriters Laboratory (UL) and Intertek ETL certifications help you ensure you’re buying a surge protector that’s been tested and inspected by professional safety organizations. These certifications demonstrate that the surge protector meets electrical safety standards in the U.S. You can identify UL and ETL-certified surge protectors by looking for the logo on the device, checking the owner’s manual or inspecting the device’s packaging. Not only should you see the logo, but you should be able to identify the code for the lab the product was tested in.

Surge Protectors Are Not a Substitute for Additional Wiring

Have you been using a surge protector because there aren’t enough outlets in the room? If so, you may be setting yourself up for an expensive disaster.

A surge protector’s job is to protect the devices plugged into it from an electrical surge, not necessarily give you 10 extra outlets to plug devices into. When you overload a surge protector, you can trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. Repeatedly overloading your surge protector can cause greater, more expensive damage to your home’s electrical system or even spark a fire.

To take it a step further, never plug one surge protector into another. This is known as daisy chaining or piggy backing. Interpower quotes a U.S. government white paper on daisy chaining stating, “Most power strips or surge protectors are approved for providing power to a maximum of four or six individual items. When multiple power strips are interconnected, the one directly connected to the building wall outlet is often supplying power to far more outlets than the approved number. This electrical current overload can result in a fire or can cause a circuit breaker to trip, de-energizing computers and other equipment throughout the area that are connected to a surge protector.”

It’s also important to note, never use a 2-to-3-prong adapter to plug in a surge protector. To operate safely, surge protectors must be grounded properly.

Give Your Surge Protector a Check Up

When is the last time you inspected your surge protectors? It’s easy to get caught up in day-to-day life and forget about the surge protector that’s been hiding behind your entertainment center since you bought your television years ago. It’s important to check the surge protector for signs of wear, including worn outlets, frayed wires, chewed wires, or loose wire insulation. You should also hold the surge protector to see if it feels hot. An overheating surge protector is a surefire warning that it’s either overloaded or worn out.

When conducting your inspection, make sure your surge protectors have room to breathe. Blankets, rugs and pillows prevent surge protectors from expelling heat generated by electrical energy. In case of an electrical malfunction, you want to keep flammable materials as far from surge protectors as possible.

Concerned About Your Home’s Electrical Health?

Contact the experts at Althoff Industries. Our knowledgeable technicians can help you tackle any electrical issue, including safety checks, circuit breaker inspections, electrical panel upgrades, wiring upgrades, whole home surge protectors and more. Give us a call today at (815) 455-7000.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information. 

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How to Prevent Water Heater Leaks

Friday, February 22nd, 2019

Water heater leaks are an inevitable problem for most homeowners, especially with tank water heaters. Like any other appliance, water heaters eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Depending on the brand, use and maintenance, some may last as little as eight years. Other more durable, well-maintained tanks may last 8-12 years.

While there are some factors that are out of your control like water type, manufacturing errors and material quality, there are a steps that you can take to ensure you give your water heater the longest, leak-free life possible.

Prevent water heater leaks before they happen.

As we’ve illustrated, there’s no guaranteed way of preventing your water heater from leaking. As it ages, leaks will become more common as the parts and materials wear down. However, you can take action to make sure you catch minor issues before they turn into major ones:

  • Drain and flush the tank. All water contains minerals. As your tank drains and refills, mineral sediment will start to accumulate, which affects the quality of your hot water and corrodes the bottom of the tank. We recommend draining and flushing sediment from the tank at least once a year.
  • Inspect the anode rod. The anode rod attracts and collects the corrosive mineral sediment that’s present in your water. Eventually, the rod will fill up with sediment, and it won’t be able to remove any more corrosive minerals from your water supply. By inspecting the anode rod and replacing it when it’s completely corroded, you can limit the amount of sediment that settles at the bottom of your water tank.
  • Check pipes and fittings. Make sure the pipes feel sturdy and the fittings are tight. You’d be surprised at how pipes can loosen over time.
  • Identify corrosion and weak spots. Check the tank for any rust, corrosion or other weak spots. This is a warning sign that your water heater is close to failing.

You can make sure these things are done properly and safely by getting a professional water heater tune-up every year.

What causes water heater leaks?

In order to prevent future water heater leaks, you need to understand how leaks occur. Luckily, water heater leaks are pretty easy to spot and diagnose when you can locate the source.

If there’s water everywhere…

Is there water on the walls, ceiling, floor and just about everywhere you look? It might look like your water heater exploded and sprayed water all over the room.

Most likely, it’s not the water heater that’s to blame, but the connection or pipes coming to and from the water heater. Have you ever tried to use a garden hose without screwing on the nozzle all the way? Water sprays everywhere. This is the same concept, just on a larger, messier scale.

Over time, pipe fittings can wear down or loosen. As you continue to use the water heater, the water flowing through will put strain on the pipes, causing the fittings to loosen even further. In some cases, the fittings may have just come loose and need to be tightened. In others, they may need to be replaced completely.

If there’s a huge puddle under the water heater…

Is there a puddle forming at the bottom of your water heater? Is growing worse with every waking minute?water heater leak

This is the most common sign that it’s time to replace your water heater. As your water heater ages, the corrosive properties of the minerals present in your water supply will wear down the lining inside of the tank. You may notice rust or condensation around the base of the water heater tank. That’a surefire way to know that it’s that tank that’s to blame for the mess.

If there’s water gushing from a valve…

Is there water settling more to one side than around the entire base? A loose drain plug might be the culprit. The drain plug is usually located towards the bottom of your water heater tank.

Like the materials that make up the pipes and water heater housing, the drain valve can wear down and fail as the water heater ages.

The pressure release valve can also be the source of a water heater leak. Usually, the pressure release valve is located towards the top of the tank. It looks like a long bent pipe angled towards the floor. There are two telltale signs that the pressure release valve is failing: your water heater is making a high-pitched squealing sound, or there’s water spraying out of the pressure release valve. Depending on the severity of the leak, you may be able to replace the valve, which is relatively inexpensive. In other cases, you may need to replace the whole water heater.

When is the last time you serviced your water heater?

If you can’t remember the last time you serviced your water heater, or if its been over a year, it’s time to give that hard-working appliance some attention.

Althoff Industries has been maintaining and repairing water heaters for over 60 years. With our expertise, you can be sure your water heater is running as efficiently as possible. Give us a call at (815) 455-7000 to schedule your maintenance and inspection today.

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Should I Get a Tank Style or Tankless Water Heater?

Thursday, January 31st, 2019

Tankless water heaters are known for being efficient and small in terms of their overall size and for that reason they are quite popular among most homeowners. Tank-style water heaters, on the other hand, will cost you much less than tankless water heaters and are easier to operate. Both have their benefits and drawbacks, but one might suit your home better than the other.

Tank-style or tankless water heaters: Which is right for your home?

Water heaters are a costly investment, and it’s often a decision you will be living with for more than a decade. However, a water heater can have a significant impact on your life without you even noticing which makes the decision even more important.

Whether you need to make sure you have enough hot water for your household or want to keep a low utility bill, choosing the right water heater for your home is extremely important.

We will now dive in and examine all of the pros and cons of tankless and tank-style water heaters so you can make the most informed decision possible.

Benefits of a Tankless Water Heater

Tankless water heaters are produced to be high-efficiency, direct-vent units. Because tankless water heaters have no tank, instead of slowly heating the water and keeping it in a tank, tankless water heaters only heat the amount of water that is needed and does so rather quickly.

It doesn’t matter if you take a five minute or a forty-five minute shower, you will never run out of hot water, and it will be available to you instantly. Having no tank also allows tankless water heaters to be smaller and rather than taking up a considerable chunk of your floor space, tankless water heaters are able to be mounted on your wall.

The best arguable benefit of a tankless water heater, though, is the amount of energy it consumes or rather doesn’t consume. Because there is no tank of water constantly needing to be kept hot, tankless water heaters don’t experience the same amount of standby energy losses that tank-style water heaters do.

In fact, the most efficient gas tankless water heater on the market has an energy factor of 1 and uses only 150 therms/year for natural gas. Not only that, but tankless water heaters also have a lifespan of 20 years or more which means you will be able to enjoy the upgrade for many years to come.

Drawbacks to a Tankless Water Heater

The most obvious and understandable drawback to a tankless water heater is the overall cost. For both the unit, as well as the installation, tankless water heaters typically cost about twice as much as traditional, tank-style water heaters, depending on the flow rate.

The average cost of a tankless water heater installation varies depending on the type, brand, your home, and whether you are installing a new water heater or replacing an old one.

As we mentioned earlier, tankless water heaters can be mounted on the wall to save floor space, but they also have special venting requirements and often need larger gas lines because of the higher BTU rating which makes them more difficult to install.

Lastly, though tankless water heaters can deliver an unlimited amount of hot water, there is, however, a limit to how much water is delivered at once. Tankless water heaters heat water as it passes through, so it’s important to make sure that you purchase a large enough tankless water heater to ensure that adequate hot water flow is available.

Benefits of a Tank-Style Water Heater

One of the main advantages of tank-style water heaters is that they are more cost-effective than tankless water heaters.

Tank-style water heaters also operate much simpler than tankless water heaters. Because of this simple operation, there will be less maintenance and less repair for almost identical functionality if you opt for a tank-style heater.

Tank-style water heaters can hook up to the existing gas supply in your home without having to make any changes or alterations in plumbing. Tank-style water heaters are also ready to go with the existing electrical power load in your home so new circuits will not have to be put in during installation.

Tank-style water heaters also have no minimum flow rate, so you never have to worry about how much hot water you need at one time. Because tank-style water heaters have a standby supply of heated water, you won’t have to worry about waiting for the water to reach your taps.

Drawbacks to a Tank-Style Water Heater

As with everything, though, there are some drawbacks to having a tank-style water heater in your home. Tank-style water heaters are relatively large and will take up more space in your home. This can be a bit of a challenge because you will need it to be in an area that is convenient and out of sight.

Also, compared to tankless water heaters, you will notice energy loss, also known as “standby loss,” caused by the energy that is wasted on keeping a full tank of hot water at all times.

It’s also worth noting that if the tank-style water heater is in a cool environment, it needs to work even harder during winter months to produce hot water which will increase gas or electric bills.

As you can see, deciding between a tank-style and tankless water heater depends on you and your home’s specific needs.If you are looking for more information on water heaters, or need a water heater installed in your home, contact one of the licensed Chicago plumbers from Althoff. Contact us at 800-225-2443

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Where are My Water and Gas Shut Off Valves?

Tuesday, August 14th, 2018

If you need to turn off your home’s gas or water due to a needed repair or a weather issue, first you have to know where the water and gas shut off valves are located. Ideally, you’ll want to locate the main or master shut offs, as well as the supply shut offs, before an emergency happens.

SAFETY NOTE: If you suspect a gas leak, do not try to turn off the gas to your home. Get outside, move away from the house, and then call the gas company.

If you have a water leak, your municipal water supplier may have an emergency number you can call to report it.

How to Find the Main Water Shut Off Valve

There are actually two main water cut off valves – one before the water line reaches the meter and the other on the “house side” of the water meter. These turn off the water supply to the entire home. In colder climates, both the meter and the shut off valves are located inside the house to prevent freezing. In warmer climates, the meter and the valves will either be outside the house or below ground, inside a box.

Turn off your home’s water supply: Turn the main shut off valve that’s on the house side, after the meter.

  • If it’s a lever, turn it so it’s at a right angle, or perpendicular, to the water supply line. To turn the water back on, turn the lever so it’s parallel, or in the same direction as, the supply line.
  • If the main shut off valve is a round handle like the ones on outdoor faucets, simply turn it clockwise to turn off the water (righty-tighty) and counter-clockwise to turn the water back on (lefty-loosey).

Note: You may notice two other valves outside your house, but they are only for use by the city workers. An underground curb stop valve is located between your home’s water meter and the water main in the street. There’s also a “corporation stop”, which is where the house water line and the water main meet.

How to Find the Water Supply Shut Off Valves

It’s not always necessary to shut off the main water supply. If you’re just repairing or replacing one fixture, like a faucet, you can turn off the water only to its individual supply line. Also called a supply stop, this shut off valve is usually a small metal oval or round handle located on the water line running to your toilets, water heater, dishwasher, faucets, washing machine and water softener

In some cases, you may find a t-shaped connector on the water supply line for your furnace humidifier or your refrigerator’s ice maker. Be sure to monitor these, as they’re a common source for leaks. Building codes in many areas require them to be replaced with supply stops to prevent water damage.

How to Find the Main Gas Shut Off Valve

If you have any natural gas appliances in your home, the main gas shut off valve that you’ll want to look for is usually inside, where the gas line enters the house. However, older homes may only have one shut off at the meter itself. In most cases, the meter shut off valve is only for use by the gas company, fire department or a plumbing or HVAC contractor.

When you shut off the main gas supply, keep in mind that you’ll have to relight the pilot lights in your gas appliances, unless they have an electronic ignition system. Relighting instructions can usually be found in the owner’s manual or on the appliance itself, but if you’re unsure or not comfortable with it, you can always call a professional like Althoff Industries to take care of it for you.

Turn off your home’s gas supply: The way to shut off the main gas valve depends on what type of setup your house has.

In newer homes, the gas shut off valve may look like a bright yellow lever on a black iron pipe where the gas supply line enters your house. To turn off the gas, just turn the lever perpendicular to the line, and then turn it parallel to the line to turn the gas back on.

If your home is newer and has a high-pressure gas system, the gas supply line will be a flexible copper pipe. The indoor main shut off valve can usually be found near your home’s furnace or water heater, just before the pressure regulator.

Homes that use propane will have a shut off valve on the tank as well as one on the gas line before the connection to the first appliance.

To turn off the gas in an older home that uses natural gas and doesn’t have an indoor shut off, you’ll have to use the street-side shut off valve outside on the gas meter. The valve typically looks like a small rectangle, but you’ll need a special wrench to open and close it. To turn off the gas, turn the valve perpendicular to the incoming gas line. Turn the valve parallel to the line to turn the gas back on. It may be a good idea to pick up a gas meter shut off wrench at your local home improvement store and then leave it attached to the meter in case you need it.

How to Find the Gas Supply Shut Off Valves

Every gas appliance has an individual shut off valve so you can repair or replace it without turning off the gas to your entire home. It’s typically a lever that you turn perpendicular to the line to shut off the gas; turning it parallel to the line will turn the gas back on.

The service, or supply, shut off valve for gas appliances should be located on the flexible supply line, called an appliance connector, no more than 6 feet from the appliance itself. The line may be visible for furnaces, gas fireplaces and water heaters, but gas dryers and stoves will need to be pulled away from the wall to get access to the shut off valve.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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4 Reasons You Should Replace That Old Toilet

Tuesday, July 17th, 2018

Does your toilet require lengthy instructions to guests on how to flush it? Is it worn out to the point where no amount of cleaning can make it presentable, and you hope guests don’t ask to use it in the first place? Why haven’t you replaced that old toilet already?

Many of us have the tendency to stick with things even if we’re not thrilled with them or we know there are better options, simply because change seems like a hassle. That’s true of a lot of things in life, even toilets!

Thing is, replacing your old toilet is easier than you think and offers many benefits. Here are four of them.

1. Better performance

Tired of hitting the flush lever and hoping everything goes down? Do you often have to flush more than once? Many of today’s toilets combine dual flush mechanisms and larger trapways to improve flushing performance. Power-assisted systems use small pumps to increase the pressure of the flush.

2. Improved comfort

Comfort height toilets are around 3 inches taller than older standard toilets. What may seem like a small difference is actually very significant, especially for tall or elderly people, or anyone with bad knees. Elongated toilets are much more comfortable for adults. The shape of the bowl is much better for men, giving them extra space where they need it most.

3. More aesthetically pleasing

An updated toilet can complete the look of the room, while an outdated, faded, or damaged toilet can take away from even the most stylish bathrooms. Even if your updating budget is limited, replacing the toilet offers excellent value for your money, as toilets will last for 15 years or more and are one of the most frequently used appliances in the home.

4. Lower water consumption

Toilets installed before 1992 may use anywhere from 3.5 to 7 gallons every time you flush. Most of today’s toilets use as little as 1.28 gallons per flush. Upgrading your toilet can save you a lot of money on your water bill along with helping the environment.

Replacing your old toilet is quick, easy and affordable with Althoff.

If you’ve been putting off replacing your old toilet because you don’t have the time or don’t want the hassle of installing a new one, let the licensed Chicago plumbers from Althoff take care of it quickly and easily. Not sure which toilet to choose? We can help you select one that fits your room aesthetic, comfort and performance needs. Contact us at 800-225-2443 today.

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Why Does My Heater Make a Screeching Sound?

Monday, May 14th, 2018

“Do you know how old your sump pump is?”

I love to ask people this when I get the chance. Unless they recently had a flooded basement, they don’t remember. Nobody does.

That’s not surprising. There’s a lot to remember these days … passwords, websites, birthdays, anniversaries (especially that last one!). After awhile, it’s hard enough to remember your own age, let alone the age of your sump pump. Plus, it’s down in the basement where you never go if you can help it. Even if you do look at the sump pump, it’s not like there’s a tag on it that clearly tells you the age.

Here’s the thing. Even though forgetting your sump pump’s birthday is understandable, it can lead to problems (and not because you didn’t get it a gift…).

Your sump pump is probably older than you think.

I was recently discussing average sump pump life expectancy with a major manufacturer. They said: “The average life expectancy for a sump pump is five to seven years.”

Wow, I thought. That comes really fast.

I talk to customers all the time who say, “Yeah, I think we had the sump pump replaced a few years ago.” So, I go into the service history, and it was actually 10 years ago! Time flies, right? Some people have been in their homes for over 10 years, and have never replaced the sump pump that came with the house.

That’s a problem, because flood water entering your basement is NOT the time you want to discover that your sump pump is on its last leg.

What are some signs you should replace your sump pump?

  • Old Age: Though the average life expectancy is five to seven years, you may get more or less use depending on how hard and how often the sump pump has to work. Have a professional examine the pump to determine what shape it’s in.
  • Loud and/or Unusual Noises: Goes for all machines, right? Some noise is normal, but if it’s louder than you remember, call in a pro to take a listen. Rattles, thunks, knocking and grinding sounds may mean a motor problem.
  • Cycling On and Off: If your sump pump goes through constant cycles of turning on and off—or doesn’t turn on or off when it should—call in a professional. You may need a new pump, or there may be a problem with the power or float switch.
  • Won’t Stop Running: If your sump pump runs continuously, it may be unable to handle the water load the way it should. It may be time to replace it.

Let the pros at Althoff’s replace your aging sump pump before there’s a problem.

Do yourself a favor: Get your old sump pump replaced. Don’t go through another rainy season hoping you won’t have a problem. Our professional Chicago plumbers can get that squared away for you. Contact us at 800-225-2443 to schedule.

Also, remember that you should have a professional sump pump inspection once a year. That little pump with a big job is too important to ignore.

Plus, when someone asks you if you know how old your sump pump is, you can say “YES!”

Receive a Free WiFi Enabled Control When You Purchase a Battery Backup System for Your New Sump Pump ($350 value )! Call 800-225-2443 now.

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3 Most Common Winter Furnace Repairs

Tuesday, February 6th, 2018

During winter’s blast, our furnaces work overtime to keep us comfortable without much regard to age or condition. Eventually, the weakest link in a heating system will fail, creating a need for a furnace repair. While your furnace may carry a decade or longer guarantee, some of the smaller, more susceptible parts, like those listed below, may fail prematurely.

Here are the most common furnace repairs our technicians encounter each winter.

1. Igniter Failure

Igniter failure is the single most common cause of gas furnace problems we see.

Furnace igniters replaced the pilot light systems that started gas furnaces in the past. If you remember “the pilot light going out” on your old gas furnace, you know that pilot lights were inefficient and often extinguished by drafts.

Rather than an actual standing flame, modern ignitors use electricity to heat small wires or filaments until they produce a spark to ignite the gas furnace. While igniters are safer and much more energy efficient than the old pilot lights, they’re still a common source of furnace issues.

Ignitors can malfunction with age, wear and tear. A dirty or clogged ignitor can prevent your gas furnace from igniting properly.

2. Issues With the Flame Sensor

The flame sensor is another part of the furnace ignition system that is prone to failure.

Older gas furnaces had a thermocouple, which could detect the heat put off by the pilot light. If the thermocouple determined there was no pilot light, it would prevent the flow of gas to the furnace for obvious safety reasons.

Modern furnaces use a flame sensor which, in essence, serves the same purpose. A flame sensor will prevent the flow of gas into your furnace if it detects there is no ignition source like a flame ignitor. The flame sensor must perform this task dozens if not hundreds of times per day throughout the cold weather months. Over time, the flame sensor can fail due to this great demand.

3. Problems With the High-Limit Switch

Have you noticed that your furnace will kick on minutes before warmer air begins to circulate throughout your home? This is the high-limit switch at work.

The high-limit switch has the important job of keeping the blower from powering air through your home until it’s heated sufficiently. Without a functioning high-limit switch, you’d be shivering in cold, unheated air!

This is another part of your furnace that is asked to perform thousands of times through the winter and will likely eventually fail.

When To Call An HVAC Professional

While it’s possible for experienced do-it-yourselfers to complete some of these common repairs on their own, we would caution against taking on such a task if you feel at all uncomfortable. Most modern furnaces combine electricity and gas to create combustion—two elements that require caution, know-how, and appropriate safety measures. When it comes to any furnace repair, the safety of you and your family is the primary concern.

If you’re in the Greater Chicago area, schedule your furnace service online or give us a call at (815) 455-7000. Our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians can diagnose your furnace problem and get it resolved fast so you’re not left in the cold.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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Althoff HVAC Trucks: Fully Stocked to Finish Residential Service Jobs

Wednesday, January 3rd, 2018

Those who live and work in the Crystal Lake, Northwest Chicago area, and its suburbs have likely seen our Althoff Industries service trucks on the area roadways. You may not, however, have given much thought to what all is contained in these vehicles.

It helps to understand that for our technicians, these trucks tend to serve as their offices on wheels. As such, they need to contain the parts and tools that we use most often. This better allows us to complete a repair on the first call properly. It also saves us, and you, time and money.

Of course, with so many brands, types, sizes, and configurations of heating and air conditioning equipment, this leads to quite a collection of parts and tools. Is it always pretty and well-organized in the back of our service trucks? Not very often. But through the years, however, we have become quite adept at making sure our trucks are equipped to handle the most common HVAC and plumbing related problems on an initial call. Let’s take a closer look at what you may typically find in an Althoff HVAC residential repair truck.

Hand and Power Tools

Of course, one of the most critical factors in residential HVAC repair is having the right tool for the right job. This means a variety of both common and specialized hand and power tools that range from hammers and pliers to sheet metal cutting tools and soldering equipment.

Gauges, Diagnostic and Measuring Equipment

At Althoff Industries, our primary concern is that of the safety of your family. This makes it necessary that we have a variety of gauges and measuring equipment to help us properly diagnose any potentially dangerous conditions. These devices include equipment like a combustion analyzer, draft gauge, manometer, and more. Humidity and temperature gauges also help us in determining HVAC related issues.

Various Nuts, Bolts, and Small Parts

The back of one of our residential HVAC repair trucks will have a variety of nuts, bolts, screws, and small parts to help technicians complete their tasks. This will also include a variety of sealers, electrical tapes, duct tape, and PVC and sheet metal parts.

Parts that Commonly Fail

Some HVAC parts are more prone to failure than others. These include relays, transformers, circuit boards, capacitors, thermostats, thermocouples, blower motors, igniters, and more. Our trucks contain a variety of these parts including replacement hoses and valves, wiring, switches, connectors, breakers, and others.

The Most Important Part 

Our trucks contain refrigerant, refrigerant reclaim jugs, flush kits, glycol and glycol pumps, and so much more. But it is what you don’t see in the back of our HVAC contractor truck that is perhaps most important. That is the knowledge, training, and experience of our Althoff Industries technicians.

When you contact us for a service call, you likely want that call completed as efficiently and quickly as possible. A properly equipped and stocked truck can help us better accomplish that.

Keeping our trucks properly stocked and outfitted with the latest tools is part of the cost of doing business. So is properly maintaining our vehicles so they are ready to go when you need us. Whether your furnace decides to give out during the coldest day of the winter or your AC fails in the mid-summer heat, you can count on the team at Althoff Industries to be prepared. When you experience HVAC issues, we invite you to contact us, at Althoff Industries.

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