Althoff Home Services Blog: Posts Tagged ‘Residential HVAC’

My A/C Is Running but Not Blowing Cold Air

Monday, July 1st, 2019

Summer is in full swing and, on really hot days, all you want to do when you get home from a long day is to enjoy some cool air conditioning. Nothing kills this excitement more in the warm summer months than entering your home only to realize that your A/C is not blowing cold air. Unfortunately, an A/C is not fail-proof and they can quit blowing cool air for a variety of reasons. We have listed some of these reasons below so you can have an idea of why your A/C quit working and how you can resolve the issue.

Reasons Why Your A/C is Running but Not Blowing Cold Air

1. Your Thermostat Is Set Incorrectly

Sometimes an A/C doesn’t blow cold air simply because your thermostat settings need to be adjusted. Luckily, this is a pretty easy issue to resolve on your own. Some people think that leaving their A/C running all day is the best way to keep their home cool, but it is actually best to set your fan to AUTO, this will ensure that your air conditioner is running only when it is actually cooling the air. Changing this setting will help save money on energy bills, ensure that you don’t wear out your A/C too quickly, and keep your home cool.

2. Your Air Filter Is Dirty

Having a dirty air filter can inhibit airflow which could definitely be a reason that your A/C isn’t blowing cool air. Take out your air filter and see if there is any debris. If you do notice that the air filter is dirty, swap it out for a new one and get in the habit of changing it out every month.

A great way to ensure that your air filter is clean and your A/C works all summer long, we suggest having professional regularly scheduled maintenance.

3. Your Outside Unit Is Dirty

In the same vein as point number two, having an outside unit that is covered in dirt, dust, and other debris could also be inhibiting cool air from making its way into your home.

Air conditioners work when the inside unit (called an evaporator) absorbs heat from the air and then transfers that heat to the outside unit (called the condenser). The condenser can’t properly dissipate heat if it’s dirty or crowded with debris.

You can resolve this issue by spraying the outside unit with a garden hose on a gentle setting and removing weeds and overgrowth around the unit.

4. Refrigerant Leak

Refrigerant is the liquid that absorbs the heat from the air. When you don’t have enough refrigerant, your A/C can’t absorb enough heat to cool the air. Refrigerant leaks are fairly common and can definitely be the reason why your A/C isn’t blowing cold air.

Signs you have a refrigerant leak include:

  1. Ice buildup on the outside unit and line
  2. Bubbling or hissing noises
  3. Your A/C doesn’t cool the home on hot days but works fine on cool days and at night

If you see these signs, turn off your A/C immediately and call a professional. Refrigerant chemicals are very dangerous and need to be handled by the experts.

5. Air Duct Leaks

Over time, the air ducts that move air conditioning through your home may become loose or their seal may be compromised. This means that air is escaping erratically which makes it hard to keep your home at the temperature you want. You will need to have a professional come out and evaluate your air ducts to ensure that they are not leaking cool air and make repairs as needed.

6. A Bad Compressor

The compressor is one of the most important parts of the A/C system and pushes the refrigerant through the unit. If your compressor isn’t working properly, your A/C cannot work. Compressors need to be evaluated by a professional and replaced if they appear worn out or defective. Unfortunately, compressors are expensive unless you have a warranty. Chances are if your compressor is bad, you’ll probably need to replace an entire outside unit.

7. Dirty Evaporator Coils

An evaporator coil is the part of the A/C system where the refrigerant absorbs heat. Over time, the evaporator coils get dirty and affect the performance of your A/C and make it harder to remove warm air.

Dirty evaporator coils can lead to your A/C overheating and potentially shutting off completely. Evaporator coils should be evaluated and cleaned by a professional to ensure that they are in good condition.

Schedule an Appointment and Stay Cool All Summer Long

If your A/C is not blowing cold air, contact our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians. They can help troubleshoot the problem so you can cool down and relax again. Contact us at 815-455-7000 to schedule.

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5 Air Conditioning Noises and Their Causes

Thursday, June 13th, 2019

Summertime—it’s sunshine, warm breezes, barbecues and the gentle hum of air conditioners keeping houses cool throughout the neighborhood. In a split second, that gentle hum can turn into an unnerving hissing, banging or screeching. While all air conditioners make noise, it’s important to be able to recognize which noises are normal, and which noises require a professional inspection.

1. Hissing

Uh oh! More than likely, you’ve sprung a leak. Usually, a hissing sound indicates that your air conditioner is leaking refrigerant. In some cases, there’s a small opening in one of the refrigerant lines. In others, there may be an internal valve leak.

If the hissing is really loud and accompanied by squealing or screeching from the compressor, you need to turn off your air conditioner immediately. This indicates that there is too much pressure in the compressor, which could lead to a costly repair bill if you don’t act soon.

2. Screeching

One of the most startling noises is generally one of the easiest to diagnose. In newer direct-drive A/C units, you can trace a screeching noise to a shot bearing in the fan motor. Usually, you’ll have to replace the fan motor to get the noise to stop. In older A/C units, the screech could be coming from the belt that connects the motor to the blower. Belts gradually wear down, and you need to replace them from time to time.

3. Banging

A loud banging or rattling can mean that there’s a loose part somewhere in your A/C unit. Before more damage occurs, you’ll want to shut of the air conditioner as soon as you hear the noise. Is the noise louder outside of your house or inside of it? If it’s outside, one of the fan blades could have come loose in the compressor. If the noise is louder inside, your blower fan might be causing the racket.

4. Clicking

Hearing a clicking sound when the air conditioner kicks on is common and completely normal. That click is how your thermostat communicates with the unit. However, when it’s on, your A/C shouldn’t be ticking like a clock.

Like banging noises, clicking often comes from a loose or damaged part that’s hitting against something that it normally wouldn’t. An occasional clicking noise could indicate that there’s something stuck in one of the airways. On the other hand, if the clicking is constantly coming from your thermostat, there could be an issue with the circuit board.

5. Buzzing

A couple of issues could make your air conditioning unit buzz, like a swarm of hornets building a nest in your outside unit. If you can rule out pests, the buzzing could be coming from loose parts rubbing together, or your air conditioner might have frozen up. If you see a buildup of frost and ice on the unit, a professional can help you determine the cause. Finally, listen to hear if the buzzing sound is coming from the unit’s power source. The A/C could be overloading your circuit panel, which will require a professional evaluation.

If your air conditioner is making a noise that it shouldn’t, call Althoff.

Ignoring the problem could cause damage to your unit that then requires more extensive repairs. Have one of our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians check out the sound now and get peace of mind. Contact us at 800-225-2443 to schedule.

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Can I Get a Tax Credit for Switching to Energy-Efficient Appliances?

Monday, March 18th, 2019

As of the 2018 tax year, many of the federal tax credits for upgrading to new, energy-efficient appliances have expired. In the past, you were able to collect federal tax credits for energy-efficient water heaters, air conditioners, boilers, furnaces and other in-home appliances. Now, the IRS provides these types of tax credits only for residential renewable energy products. According to Energy Star, these tax credits should remain available through December 31, 2021.

The tax credits may have expired, but in many cases it’s still a cost-effective solution to update your major in-home appliances. Depending on the age of your water heater, air conditioner or furnace, you could be wasting valuable dollars every month by powering old, inefficient appliances.

For tax year 2018, we’ll explain some of tax credits you can still qualify for if you decide to choose a renewable energy appliance for your home. We’ll also illustrate some of the cost savings you can expect if you choose to replace your old appliances with energy-efficient ones in 2019.

What appliances can I still get a tax credit for?

The U.S. government has restricted the federal tax credit to apply only to equipment that uses alternative energy. You can receive a 30% tax credit through the end of 2019. After 2019, the credit will gradually decrease until it disappears completely for the 2021 tax year. You can view the appliances available to receive the tax credit on IRS Form 5695. Examples that still qualify for the residential energy credit include:

  • Solar water heater. These water heaters convert power from the sun into an energy-efficient heat source for your water. In order to be eligible, the solar water heater must be installed at your primary residence, not a rental property. At least half of the energy generated by the water heater must come from the sun.
  • Small wind turbine. These residential-sized wind turbines convert wind energy into electricity for your home. In order to qualify, the turbine must be installed at your primary residence; the residence can be a new, existing, or second home. The turbine must have a nameplate capacity of no more than 100 kilowatts.

How do I file my tax rebate?

Filing for your tax rebate is simple, as long as you meet the requirements. According to TurboTax, “To claim the credit, you’ll need IRS Form 5695. Work out the credit amount on that form, then enter it on your 1040. You should keep your receipt for the appliance as well as the Manufacturer’s Certification Statement, so you can prove your claim if the IRS ever conducts an audit.”

Will I save money by upgrading to energy-efficient appliances?

If you’re looking for an appliance upgrade, you don’t need a tax credit to see the cost savings. If any of your appliances have been around for more than 10 years, you can expect to see considerable energy savings when you upgrade to a newer model. For example, according to Energy Star, certified gas storage water heaters are, “about eight percent more efficient than a standard model.” Energy Star certified central air conditioners not only have higher seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) and energy efficiency ratio (EER) ratings but also use about 8 percent less energy than conventional new models.

In total, Energy Star reports that, “By choosing Energy Star, a typical household can save about $575 on their energy bills and still enjoy the quality and performance they expect.”

Are you in the market to upgrade a major home appliance?

Althoff Industries specializes in recommending and replacing furnaces, boilers, air conditioners and more. Contact us today at (815) 455-7000, and we’ll help you get the process started.

Disclaimer: Althoff Industries does not provide tax, legal or accounting services. This article has been prepared for informational purposes only.

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How to Extend the Life of Your Furnace

Thursday, December 27th, 2018

Your furnace is a hard-working appliance. Like any other appliance, its parts will wear down over time. However, there are a few steps you can take to make sure your furnace lasts as long as possible.

1. Replace your furnace filter.

When is the last time you checked your furnace filter? Do you remember the last time you replaced it?

A dirty air filter is one of the most common contributors to furnace failure. A filter that is clogged with dirt, dust and dander makes it difficult for your furnace to handle air. This, in turn, causes increased wear-and-tear. Imagine trying to do a strenuous workout with a thick cloth around your mouth and nose, and you’ll get an idea of how hard it is for your furnace to work without enough air. Your furnace can even begin to overheat, increasing the risk of damage.

With regular filter maintenance, you can help your unit breathe easier and extend its life. Filters are relatively inexpensive, and they’re much cheaper than repairing or replacing your broken furnace. To help your furnace run as efficiently as possible, we recommend inspecting your furnace filter one a month and replacing it bi-monthly or as needed.

When installing your new filter, make sure you install it correctly to avoid airflow issues.

2. Check for proper airflow.

You may not be a professional furnace inspector, but there are things you can easily check to help ensure your furnace has the air it needs to operate properly.

  • Intake grills. Make sure there’s nothing blocking the air returns to your furnace, so it can operate properly.
  • Ducts. Visually inspect the ductwork for cracks, holes and gaps. Wave your hand over the joints to see if you feel any air leaking. Cool or cold air coming from the vents is another possible sign of leaking ductwork.
  • Filter Door. Make sure the air filter door is closed properly.
  • Air Vents. Walk around your house to make sure the air vents are open. If too many vents are closed, your furnace may not be able to work efficiently.

3. Get a professional furnace tune-up every fall.

Before you turn on your furnace on for the winter, it’s important to schedule a full furnace tune-up. An annual inspection can keep your furnace clean, identify worn parts, and uncover small issues before they turn into bigger repairs. A thorough furnace tune-up should help prevent the most common winter furnace repairs, like a worn and dirty ignitor and flame sensor problems.

When scheduling your appointment, keep in mind that many HVAC companies will offer an introductory tune-up for a low price. These may seem like a good bargain, but they’re often not in-depth enough to ensure your furnace is performing at its best.

For example, your furnace tune-up should always include a draft check and combustion analysis, which many of these low priced introductory tune-ups do not. The combustion process needs to be checked yearly to ensure safe operation. Gas leaks, high carbon monoxide levels, and improper drafting can be dangerous if not addressed. ALWAYS ask if these elements are included. They’re the only reliable way to assure the efficient and safe operation of your gas furnace.

While a furnace tune-up can’t 100% guarantee that your furnace won’t have any issues over the winter, it ensures you’re as prepared as you can be. Think of winter as a test—you’re better off passing if you study. A furnace tune-up is just like that.

Extend the life of your furnace with Althoff Industries.

Your furnace should last for many years with good maintenance. If you’re in the Greater Chicago area and need a furnace tune-up, inspection or repair, contact the expert technicians at Althoff Industries. Schedule your furnace service online or give us a call at (815) 455-7000.

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Why Does My Heater Make a Screeching Sound

Monday, November 26th, 2018

You finally get home after a long, chilly day. As soon as you come inside, you crank up the thermostat hoping to knock some of the chill out of your bones. But instead of being greeted with a warm, gentle breeze from the furnace, you’re startled by the sound of an earsplitting, hair-raising screech.

Your first thought is probably, “That sounds expensive.”

A screeching heater is unnerving. However, most of the time, it’s a simple fix that requires a bit of expert knowledge and skilled hands to repair. It’s not a sound that you want to turn up the TV and ignore, though—the longer your heater screeches, the more you risk costly damage.

Let’s take a look at the most common causes of a screeching or squealing heater.

Blower Motor Failure

Your furnace’s blower motor creates a lot of force—blowing enough air to warm the whole home is a tough job. While blower motors are engineered for the job, like any other machine, the parts will wear down over time with use. When this happens, these parts can literally “scream” for help—that’s the squealing or screeching noise you’re hearing.

  • First, it could be the blower motor bearings. As the lubricating oil breaks down with wear, the bearings can seize up and ultimately fail. When the bearings can’t move freely, they can emit a loud, unsettling screeching noise.
  • The screeching could be coming from the blower wheel. An out of balance blower wheel will cause noise, vibration, and over time ruin the bearings on the motor. A loud screeching sound can result from metal pieces rubbing together.

An expert furnace technician can find and fix the root cause of the blower motor problem. If you hear a screeching sound from your furnace, don’t put off the call. In many cases, a simple fix (like lubricating the motor bearings) can prevent further damage and costly repairs.

Regular furnace maintenance, like an annual tune-up, can spot potential problems with the blower motor and keep it in good repair.

Is a screeching heater keeping you up at night?

Serving the Greater Chicago area, Althoff Industries can help you rest easy knowing your home will be warm when the temperature drops. Your heater’s screeching is a cry for help—call us at 800-225-2443.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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Why Is My Furnace Running but Not Blowing Hot Air?

Monday, October 29th, 2018

Your furnace clicks on and the blower motor is running, but the air coming from the vents is cold or cool instead of hot. Or maybe the air starts off hot, then turns cool before the furnace shuts down.

Let’s look at some of the solutions to this common furnace problem.

1. Check the air filter.

Has it been awhile since you changed your furnace air filter? If you use disposable air filters, we recommend checking them every month and changing them if they’re dirty.

A dirty air filter affects more than just your home’s air quality (though don’t get us wrong, that’s important). The humble air filter is at the root of many furnace problems.

A clogged, dirty air filter blocks the return air flow to the furnace, meaning:

  • There’s less air to blow out of your vents. This could account for your “cold air” feeling.
  • The furnace can overheat. The furnace is suffocating without enough air, so it has to work harder and run longer to heat your home. Imagine trying to run a marathon with a heavy cloth around your mouth and nose, and you’ll get the idea. Soot builds up on the heat exchanger over time, making it even less efficient. All this can easily cause the heat exchanger to overheat. Your furnace has safety controls that automatically shut down the burners in case of overheating. Though the hot air stops, cool or cold air will continue to blow for awhile in order to cool down the unit to safe level.

Try changing the air filter to see if this resolves your cold air problem. If that doesn’t help but you still suspect your furnace is overheating, it’s time to call in a professional HVAC technician. Repeated overheating will damage the heat exchanger and lead to a big repair bill.

2. Check the thermostat.

If you’re getting cool air instead of warm, the problem may not be your furnace at all. It may be an issue with the thermostat. Thermostats are fiddly things—plus, you never know who in the house might have done some “unauthorized adjustments.”

  • Make sure the thermostat is set to “heat” instead of “cool.” (Yes, this sounds obvious, but it’s been the cause of many a service call!)
  • If your thermostat has a fan setting, set it to “auto” instead of “on.” If it’s set to “on,” the blower fan may run continuously even when the furnace isn’t heating the air up to the set temperature.
  • Open the thermostat panel and gently blow out any dust or debris. A dirty thermostat can sometimes malfunction.
  • If your thermostat runs on batteries, try replacing them. Most thermostats run off your home’s central power with battery backup, but some run exclusively on battery power. Dying batteries can cause the thermostat to send incorrect temperature information to the furnace.
  • Ensure that the thermostat is firmly attached to the wall and none of the wires are loose or damaged.
  • Take note of the air temperature near the thermostat. A thermostat reads the temperature of the air immediately around it. Is the thermostat in a spot that is noticeably warmer than the rest of your house? The thermostat will apply that temperature to the rest of your home, which can lead to cooler air than you wanted as the thermostat tries to regulate the temperature.

If all of these things check out but you still suspect a malfunction, the thermostat may need recalibration or replacement.

3. For gas furnaces: Make sure the gas supply valve is on.

Have you had any repairs done lately? Someone may have shut off the gas supply valve to do a repair and then forgot to turn it back on. Without the gas supply, there’s nothing for your furnace to burn to create the heat. Check that the gas valve handle is inline (parallel) with the gas pipe—that means it’s on. When it’s off, the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

If this doesn’t fix the problem, and you smell gas, turn off your gas supply and call a professional right away. Gas leaks are dangerous.

4. For gas furnaces: Check the pilot ignitor, flame sensor and/or pilot light.

Problems with your pilot light can cause your gas furnace to blow cold air.

Most modern gas furnaces have an electronic pilot igniter coupled with a flame sensor rather than a physical pilot light. These can malfunction—repairing or replacing them is a job for a professional HVAC technician.

A dirty or clogged pilot ignitor can prevent the furnace from igniting properly. While working with the ignitor is a job for a pro, you can check for a dirty ignitor if you know how and feel absolutely comfortable shutting off power to your furnace, taking off the front panel, and locating the ignitor.

If you have an older gas furnace with a standing (physical) pilot light, the light can go out. This is usually the result of the gas company shutting down the gas lines for maintenance or an emergency. Once you’ve confirmed that the gas line is safely back in operation (a quick call to the gas company is a good idea), try relighting the pilot light according to the instructions for your unit. If it won’t stay lit, call a professional. There may be a problem with the thermocouple or ignition system.

5. Consider the air ducts.

Is your furnace blowing hot air in some rooms but not in others? Does it seem like the airflow is weaker than you remember? Problems with your vents or ductwork are likely to blame.

Take a look at the air vents and make sure that the dampers (the little handles on the front panel) are parallel with the ductwork. This means that that dampers are fully open and allowing for maximum airflow from your furnace.

Still getting cool air from the vents? You may have leaking ducts. Cracks, holes and gaps in your ductwork allow the hot air from your furnace to escape before it reaches the vents. Not only will you have cold spots, but leaky ductwork will run up your energy bills and pull in dust and debris that then gets circulated into your home.

Over time, ducts can actually break due to the stress of fluctuating temperatures. Insulation can break down and fall into the duct space, clogging it. If a duct has collapsed or is severely obstructed, you’ll experience a reduction in airflow. Your furnace’s heat exchanger may overheat due to the lack of air, causing the burners to shut down.

If you suspect a problem with your ductwork, contact a professional who specializes in that area.

Furnace still not blowing hot air? Call in a professional.

A furnace problem won’t fix itself. Often the initial issue is simple to fix, but can lead to complicated and costly problems if put off too long.

If you’re in the Greater Chicago area, schedule your furnace service online or give us a call at (815) 455-7000. Our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians can diagnose the problem and get it resolved fast so you’re not left in the cold.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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Why Do You Need a Draft Check and Combustion Analysis?

Wednesday, October 17th, 2018

Gas fired appliances like furnaces, boilers and water heaters create gases as a byproduct of the combustion process. In order for these appliances to work safely, they must be vented properly and maintain a proper draft to make sure the gases exit your home. Gas leaks, high carbon monoxide levels, and improper drafting can all be dangerous if not addressed.

Gas fired appliances like furnaces, boilers and water heaters create gases as a byproduct of the combustion process. In order for these appliances to work safely, they must be vented properly and maintain a proper draft to make sure the gases exit your home. Gas leaks, high carbon monoxide levels, and improper drafting can all be dangerous if not addressed.

These gases are made up of oxygen, carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. A safe burn is represented by having the correct mixture of these components. An improper mixture can mean poor performance of your system and worse a safety concern. Only by using a combustion analyzer can these be checked.

Draft and combustion should be checked every year to ensure the safe and efficient operation of your gas-fired appliances. Here’s why you should make sure your annual furnace maintenance includes these two elements.

What is a draft check and why is it important?

Draft is required to draw flue gases and carbon monoxide safely out of a living area. This is generally accomplished through a chimney or vent system.

This flue draft will occur naturally in properly installed appliances unless it is affected by some outside force. Outside forces can include an attic fan, kitchen fan, the removal of a vent cap during high winds, or even a birds nest or other animal intrusion into the chimney.

If the flue draft gets interrupted or is impeded, carbon monoxide can back up in the chimney, eventually leaking or “spilling” into the home through the draft hood.

Verifying draft and checking for spillage is an important safety consideration for your furnace. Using a draft gauge to measure draft pressure inside the flue can determine:

  • If the furnace has sufficient combustion air to operate properly
  • If the flue gases can flow freely out of the home

If improper draft is found, the cause should be remedied to protect your household from carbon monoxide and to ensure proper operation of the equipment.

What is a combustion analysis and why is it critical?

Your gas furnace is manufactured to repeatedly and automatically ignite its burners throughout the winter, maintaining a comfortable temperature in your home. To accomplish this safely and efficiently, the right amount of combustion gases must be present.

A combustion analyzer measures the amount of carbon monoxide, the amount of oxygen, and the temperature of the flue gas in your furnace. This information is important for the following reasons:

  • Safety. Levels of carbon monoxide outside of the manufacturer guidelines can be dangerous.
  • If there is an imbalance or abnormality in the measurements, it helps the technician zero in on the underlying problem. Some hidden problems are impossible to diagnose without a combustion analyzer.
  • It provides an accurate measure of the efficiency of your furnace.
  • It reveals issues related to over firing and under firing. Both cause poor performance and shortened lifespan of your equipment if not corrected.

See a draft gauge and combustion analyzer at work.

This video shows how the draft gauge and combustion analyzer work to ensure your home is safer and your furnace is operating efficiently.

https://youtu.be/MOUlOSIaLDM

Make sure your annual furnace tune-up includes a draft check and combustion analysis.

Not every HVAC company doing furnace maintenance includes a combustion analysis and draft check as part of their gas furnace tune-up package. These steps are too important to skip, so always make sure you ask if they’re included before booking.

If you’re in the Greater Chicago area, schedule your heating system tune-up with Althoff Industries. Every gas furnace tune-up we perform includes a draft check and combustion analysis. We do it because it’s the only reliable way to assure the efficient and safe operation of your gas furnace.

Contact us at (815) 455-7000 to schedule.

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Where are My Water and Gas Shut Off Valves?

Tuesday, August 14th, 2018

If you need to turn off your home’s gas or water due to a needed repair or a weather issue, first you have to know where the water and gas shut off valves are located. Ideally, you’ll want to locate the main or master shut offs, as well as the supply shut offs, before an emergency happens.

SAFETY NOTE: If you suspect a gas leak, do not try to turn off the gas to your home. Get outside, move away from the house, and then call the gas company.

If you have a water leak, your municipal water supplier may have an emergency number you can call to report it.

How to Find the Main Water Shut Off Valve

There are actually two main water cut off valves – one before the water line reaches the meter and the other on the “house side” of the water meter. These turn off the water supply to the entire home. In colder climates, both the meter and the shut off valves are located inside the house to prevent freezing. In warmer climates, the meter and the valves will either be outside the house or below ground, inside a box.

Turn off your home’s water supply: Turn the main shut off valve that’s on the house side, after the meter.

  • If it’s a lever, turn it so it’s at a right angle, or perpendicular, to the water supply line. To turn the water back on, turn the lever so it’s parallel, or in the same direction as, the supply line.
  • If the main shut off valve is a round handle like the ones on outdoor faucets, simply turn it clockwise to turn off the water (righty-tighty) and counter-clockwise to turn the water back on (lefty-loosey).

Note: You may notice two other valves outside your house, but they are only for use by the city workers. An underground curb stop valve is located between your home’s water meter and the water main in the street. There’s also a “corporation stop”, which is where the house water line and the water main meet.

How to Find the Water Supply Shut Off Valves

It’s not always necessary to shut off the main water supply. If you’re just repairing or replacing one fixture, like a faucet, you can turn off the water only to its individual supply line. Also called a supply stop, this shut off valve is usually a small metal oval or round handle located on the water line running to your toilets, water heater, dishwasher, faucets, washing machine and water softener

In some cases, you may find a t-shaped connector on the water supply line for your furnace humidifier or your refrigerator’s ice maker. Be sure to monitor these, as they’re a common source for leaks. Building codes in many areas require them to be replaced with supply stops to prevent water damage.

How to Find the Main Gas Shut Off Valve

If you have any natural gas appliances in your home, the main gas shut off valve that you’ll want to look for is usually inside, where the gas line enters the house. However, older homes may only have one shut off at the meter itself. In most cases, the meter shut off valve is only for use by the gas company, fire department or a plumbing or HVAC contractor.

When you shut off the main gas supply, keep in mind that you’ll have to relight the pilot lights in your gas appliances, unless they have an electronic ignition system. Relighting instructions can usually be found in the owner’s manual or on the appliance itself, but if you’re unsure or not comfortable with it, you can always call a professional like Althoff Industries to take care of it for you.

Turn off your home’s gas supply: The way to shut off the main gas valve depends on what type of setup your house has.

In newer homes, the gas shut off valve may look like a bright yellow lever on a black iron pipe where the gas supply line enters your house. To turn off the gas, just turn the lever perpendicular to the line, and then turn it parallel to the line to turn the gas back on.

If your home is newer and has a high-pressure gas system, the gas supply line will be a flexible copper pipe. The indoor main shut off valve can usually be found near your home’s furnace or water heater, just before the pressure regulator.

Homes that use propane will have a shut off valve on the tank as well as one on the gas line before the connection to the first appliance.

To turn off the gas in an older home that uses natural gas and doesn’t have an indoor shut off, you’ll have to use the street-side shut off valve outside on the gas meter. The valve typically looks like a small rectangle, but you’ll need a special wrench to open and close it. To turn off the gas, turn the valve perpendicular to the incoming gas line. Turn the valve parallel to the line to turn the gas back on. It may be a good idea to pick up a gas meter shut off wrench at your local home improvement store and then leave it attached to the meter in case you need it.

How to Find the Gas Supply Shut Off Valves

Every gas appliance has an individual shut off valve so you can repair or replace it without turning off the gas to your entire home. It’s typically a lever that you turn perpendicular to the line to shut off the gas; turning it parallel to the line will turn the gas back on.

The service, or supply, shut off valve for gas appliances should be located on the flexible supply line, called an appliance connector, no more than 6 feet from the appliance itself. The line may be visible for furnaces, gas fireplaces and water heaters, but gas dryers and stoves will need to be pulled away from the wall to get access to the shut off valve.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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Top 4 Reasons Your Air Conditioner Isn’t Working

Tuesday, July 3rd, 2018

Oh, fantastic. You’re sweltering on a hot day and no matter how low you set the thermostat, your air conditioning system just can’t seem to cool the house. Or maybe you feel warm-ish air coming out of the vents instead of nice cold air. What could be going on?

There are many possible reasons why your air conditioner isn’t working, but here are the four most likely ones.

1. Refrigerant leak

When most people think about their air conditioner, they think that cool air is being created. In actuality, the job of the air conditioning system is to collect heat from inside the home, move it outdoors and release it.

Have you ever driven past a construction site and seen a line of dump trucks carrying dirt away as they clear the land? One by one the trucks are loaded, filled and then driven away to be dumped at another location.

In the same way that a dump truck is used to haul dirt from one place to another, refrigerant is used in the air conditioning system as the container to move heat. Each pound of refrigerant is designed to carry a certain amount of heat outside and release it. A system that doesn’t have enough refrigerant will not be able to cool the house properly or at all.

Symptoms of low refrigerant are:

  • Blowing warm air
  • Poor performance (“I have my stat set at 70 and I can’t get the house below 75!”)
  • Icing on the refrigerant line

If you previously had enough refrigerant and now the level has dropped, there is a leak that must be addressed.

2. Failed capacitor

Your air conditioning unit requires more energy to start up than is available through your home’s wiring. A capacitor is added to the circuit to give the unit an electrical jumpstart. Your system contains several capacitors that help start the compressor, outdoor fan motor, and blower motor inside. The most common capacitor to fail is the compressor motor run capacitor.

Capacitor failure is very common but inexpensive and quick to repair. Since it is a very common repair, service technicians stock these on their trucks. Most capacitors fail simply due to age. The life expectancy can vary, but the typical rating is about 5-7 years.

3. Failed contactor

A contactor is a small device that controls the flow of electricity to your air conditioner’s components. Think of a contactor like a drawbridge. When the drawbridge is down, cars can drive freely over the bridge to the other side. When the bridge is up, cars have to wait until it is lowered again.

Contactors work in the same way but instead of controlling traffic, they control the flow of electricity. When your air conditioner is not in a cooling cycle, the contactors are in the “up” position blocking the flow of electricity. When the thermostat wants to start a cooling cycle, a small voltage is sent to the contactors that tells them to lower into the “down” position. Contactors will stay in the down position until the thermostat is satisfied.

Contactors typically fail due to age and normal wear and tear. Like the capacitors, failure on this component is very common but can be repaired quickly.

4. Lack of maintenance

Probably the most common reason for air conditioner failure is lack of maintenance. Like any piece of machinery, your furnace and air conditioning system requires maintenance.

Here are some common consequences of poor maintenance that can leave you without cold air or with a higher-than-normal cooling bill:

Plugged filters

As air from your home blows across the evaporator coil, heat is absorbed by refrigerant and delivered outside. If the filter is plugged and air flow is restricted, it will cause the coil to freeze and leave you without air conditioning.

dirty air filter

Plugged condensate drain lines

In addition to cooling, your air conditioner removes humidity from the air. This water is removed through a small drain pipe and deposited in a floor drain or outside. Left unmaintained, over time this drain can form a clog. The clogged drain can cause the excess water to backup and cause damage to your furnace or property.

Plugged condenser coils

Heat removed from the house is taken outside and released. If the outdoor coils are not maintained and kept clean, your system will be very inefficient. The unit’s inability to release heat will cause the system to run much longer and do a poor job of cooling the home.

Let the pros at Althoff take care of your AC system before there’s a problem.

If it’s been awhile since you’ve had your AC system checked out or maintained, do yourself a favor: Get it done before you’re left without cold air on a hot day. Our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians can take care of your AC tuneup or get you set up on a regular maintenance plan for peace of mind. If you’re experiencing a problem now, give us a call and we’re on it! Contact us at 800-225-2443 to schedule.

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The Difference Between Commercial and Residential HVAC Services for your Chicago Property

Wednesday, June 13th, 2018

Commercialv vs Residential HVAC Services for your Chicago Property

Do you know the differences between residential HVAC and commercial HVAC? Knowing the differences can help you choose the right contractor for your routine maintenance, repairs and HVAC replacements.

Residential HVAC

Residential HVAC contractors repair, replace and maintain central air conditioning and heating units on single-family homes. These units often contain an outdoor condenser that is located near an outside wall and is responsible for dissipating heat and an indoor unit that is responsible for filtering the air and pushing the cool air through the air ducts.

Commercial HVAC

Commercial HVAC units are much larger than residential HVAC units because they are needed to cool much larger spaces, and they must be repaired, maintained and installed by commercial HVAC contractors that are familiar with large systems. These units are typically located on rooftops, and depending on the size of the building, more than one rooftop unit may be installed. Unlike the residential HVAC system, the commercial rooftop unit is an all-in-one unit that contains everything needed to heat and cool the building. The only items located inside the commercial or large multi-story building are the air ducts and the thermostats.

The Primary Differences Between Commercial and Residential HVAC Units

There are three main differences between commercial and residential HVAC units, including the size of the units, the location and the expansion options.

1. Size and Power of the Unit

Commercial HVAC units are often much larger and much more powerful than their residential counterparts. This is because they must be able to heat, cool and dehumidify the occupied spaces of the building, which could range in size from 5,000 square feet to more than 100,000 square feet. By contrast, single-family residential homes average about 2,000 square feet, and their heating and cooling functions are often separate with the cooling functions being controlled by the central air conditioner and the heating functions controlled by a furnace or heat pump.

2. Location of the HVAC Unit

Because commercial HVAC units are so large, they are often located on rooftops to keep the bulky and oftentimes unsightly equipment out of view of the public. Rooftops also offer lots of room, which means multiple rooftop units can be easily connected together to add heating and cooling power. Residential HVAC units are rarely located on roofs. Instead, the inside parts of the unit are typically located inside an HVAC closet, and the outdoor unit is typically located near an exterior wall and connected to the interior unit via copper piping and electrical wiring.

3. Expansion Options

Residential HVAC units are not typically expandable. Instead, the residential HVAC technician chooses the right sized unit by calculated the occupied square feet, number of doors and windows and ceiling heights. Once the area to be cooled is known, the right sized unit can be purchased and installed. If expansions are performed on the house and additional cooling power is needed, the unit has to be replaced with a large HVAC system.

By contrast, commercial HVAC units are designed to be expandable. If the commercial building undergoes a renovation that increases the occupied square footage, additional rooftop units can be connected to the existing units in order to provide more heating and cooling power.

Residential and Commercial HVAC Services with Althoff

We are proud to be able to provide the entire city of Chicago and the surrounding communities with residential HVAC services and commercial HVAC services. Our residential and commercial heating and cooling technicians are experienced in repairing, replacing and maintaining all types of HVAC equipment from complex rooftop units located on multi-unit multi-story buildings to central units located outside single-family homes.

To talk to one of our HVAC technicians about replacing, repairing or maintaining your residential HVAC system, call us at 815-455-7000. To have your commercial HVAC system serviced, replaced or upgraded, call us at 800-225-2443.

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